Tirukalukundram is known for the Vedagiriswara temple complex, popularly known as Kazhugu koil (Eagle temple). This temple consists of two structures, one at the foot-hill and the other at the top-hill. The word Thirukazhukundram comes from the Tamil words Thiru (Respectful), Kazhugu (Vulture/Eagle), Kundram (mount). It was known as “Thirukazhugukundram” in ancient times, which, overtime became Thirukazhukundram.
The town is also known as Pakshi Theertham (Bird’s Holy Lake) because of a pair of birds -Most likely Egyptian vultures that used to visit the site for centuries, daily at noon. These birds were traditionally fed by the temple priests at noon by the food made from rice, wheat, ghee and sugar. Since 1998, the Egyptians Vultures have stopped showing up at Vedagiriswara Temple. While the exact reasons for the cessation of vulture visits to the temple remain uncertain, the broader decline in vulture populations across India suggests that environmental and human-induced factors have played a significant role in this change.
This temple is one of the 275 shrines known as Paadal Petra Sthalams (The Paadal Petra Sthalam also known as Tevara Sthalam, are 276temples that are revered in the verses of Tevaram). It is 28th Shiva temple in the Thondai nadu region (historical region located in the northernmost part of Tamil Nadu and southernmost part of Andhra Pradesh) praised in Tevaram hymns (The Tevaram refers to the works of the three most prominent Shaiva Tamil saints of the 7th and 8th centuries: Sambandar, Appar, and Sundarar, that contains 796 hymns made up of 8,284 stanzas. Tevarams are Shaiva narrative of epic and Puranic heroes, as well as a hagiographic account of early Shaiva saints set in devotional poetry).
Legend
According to legend, Sage Bharadwaja prayed to the god Shiva for a long life so he could learn all the Vedas. Shiva appeared before him and granted him the wish to learn the Vedas and created three mountains each signifying a Veda (Rig, Yajur and Sama). It is believed that the hill on which the Vedagiriswara temple is built, is on the mountains signifying the Vedas created by Shiva himself. The name Vedagiriswara means “the Bhagwan of the Vedic Mountains” in Sanskrit. The hill covering an area of 265 acres is 500 feet high and the hilltop can be reached by ascending 562 well-laid stone slabs. On the way there are small mandapams, for pilgrims to rest.
The temple complex consists of two parts: one at the top of the hill and the other at the foot. The first is dedicated to Bhagwan Shiva (master of those Vedic Mountains) and the second to his consort, Parvati (named Thiripurasundari Amman in this southern part of India, Tamil Nadu). The temple at the foot-hills (Bakthavatsaleswar Temple) has four towers (gopurams), which closely resemble the architecture of the Annamalaiyar Temple at Arunachalam.
Before ascending the steps, the devotees worship Siddharti Vinayaka and Ayyappa at the foot of the hill. On the eastern side, at the foot of the hill, there is a small shrine Nalvar Koil, from where the four Tamil saints — Appar, Sundarar, Sambandar and Manickavasagar visited the temple complex and composed hymns in praise of Vedagiriswara. The central shrine of the temple where the presiding deity Vedagiriswara is seen is built of three large boulders, constituting the three walls for the sanctum. Vedagiriswara is a swayambhu lingam.
The temple has four gopurams (towers), the tallest with nine tiers (on the southern side) and the other three with seven tiers. The absence of a Nandi before the presiding deity on the hilltop is a unique feature. The legend goes that Nandi once undertook penance on the Earth. Pleased, Siva appeared before him and told him to ask for a boon. The Nandi desired that the place and the tank be named after him and asked that those taking a dip in the tank and worshipping Vedagiriswara be absolved of their sins. His prayer was granted and hence the place is also known as Nandipuram and the tank, Nandi Thirtham. Bhagwan Vedagireeswarar was worshipped by Bhagwan Brahma and Bhagwan Indra, hence thirukazhunduram is also known as Brahmapuri and Indrapuri respectively.
The mahamandapam that fringes the inner gopuram (Rishi Gopuram) contains a fine sculptural representation of Aghora Veerabhadra (Siva in ferocious form), a colossal figure of seven feet high. A similar image can be seen at the Meenakshi temple in Madurai.
After a darshan of Vedagiriswara, devotees used to eagerly await the arrival of the eagles just before noon. This scene of two eagles taking the food offered by the temple priests is sculpted on one of the walls in front of Goddess Tirupurasundari, in the lower temple at the foothill.
Architecture
When one walks further up from the bird landing site one can visit a monolithic cave temple, full of “rare sculptures”. What makes these carvings so special, is that they are all sculpted out of a single rock. This monolithic cave-temple is full of rare sculptures and belong to the Mamalla period (A.D. 610-640). There are two verandas in the cave, each being supported by four massive pillars. The uniqueness is that the whole mandapam with sculptures is hewn out of a single rock. Hence this cave is known as Orukkal (Orukkal in Tamil means single rock) Mandapam. Inside the cave temple on the way down one will find interesting historical stone inscriptions. These inscriptions also indicate that the Dutch actually visited the place, “driven by curiosity to visit the temple where eagles visit on a regular basis”. As a souvenir the Dutch have also etched their names in the temple wall, along with the date (29th of November, 1667). Dutch East India Company.
At the foothill, Bakthavatsaleswar Temple, situated in an area of ten acres, is surrounded by many Theerthams. The inner walls of the sanctum contain many images, all hewn out of the rock surrounding the presiding deity. In the enclosure around the sanctum, are the shrines of Goddess Sokkanayaki and Vinayaka (in a dancing pose). The prakaram around the sanctum of Bakthavatsaleswar (the presiding deity of the temple) has many images. The shape of the vimanam of the temple is peculiar, resembling the Buddhist viharas in the North, since the spherical top portion is cut in front.
It was here that Bhagwan Siva appeared before the Tamil saint Manickavasagar, in the form of Dakshinamurthi, and initiated him into the secrets of the holy Panchaksharam. The plantain tree is the sthala vriksham of the temple. Goddess Tirupurasundari has a special shrine.
Shanku Theertham
There are 12 Theerthams (holy water tanks) around the hillock and Shanku theertham is the most renowned holy tank. It is an extensive tank of 1,000 square yards area, with wide steps on all sides. It is believed that Saint Markandeya, came down here after visiting Benares. He wished to have a bath in the sacred tank and perform abhishekam to the Siva lingam here but he found no vessel to take the water. Just then a conch suddenly emerged from the tank, with a humming sound, and Markandeya performed the abhishekam. It is said that even now once in 12 years, a conch emerges from this water, which the temple authorities collect with all honours and preserve in the temple in an enclosed glass box with dates mentioned therein.
Scientifically, the formation of conches typically occurs in saltwater environments, making their appearance in a freshwater tank unusual. However, the periodic emergence of conches from Sangu Theertham is a well-documented aspect of the temple’s traditions. During the Shanku Theertha Pushkara Mela, a festival held every 12 years when Jupiter enters Virgo (Kanya Rasi), devotees gather in large numbers to witness and celebrate this event, which is considered the second-largest bathing festival in South India after the Maha Maham at Kumbakonam.
Approximately, 500 years back Bhagwan Sri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu visted this temple which is recorded in Sri Caitanya-Caritamrta Madhya-lila 9.72 as below.
Pakṣi-tīrtha dekhi’ kaila śiva daraśana
pakṣi-tīrtha dekhi’-after visiting the place known as Pakṣi-tīrtha; kaila—did; śiva daraśana— darshan of Bhagwan Shiva.
There is 10 day Chithirai festival happens in the temple drawing huge crowd of devotees in April-May. Next to Thiruvannamalai, Girivalam is observed by devotees here too on full moon days. It is said that the Girivalam practice was in vogue in this temple even before it began in Thiruvannamalai.
How to reach Thirukazhukundram?
- Thirukazhukundram is located on State Highway 58, 70 km away from Chennai and 15 km away from the famous tourist town Mahabalipuram. It is also 15 km away from Chengalpattu. Near road links are, 10 km away from Old Mahabalipuram Road, 10 km away from East Coast Road and 15 km away from GST road.
