A native of North East Bharat, I graduated from Arya Vidyapeeth College in Guwahati in 1990, with Anthropology as one of my subjects. It has been nearly three decades since I left the city of Guwahati, the capital of Assam and gateway to the North East Region of Bharat.
Since then, I have become immersed in the fascinating world of travel and tourism and have come to believe that Indigenous Tourism or may I as a Bharatiya put it this way –Tribal Tourism / Upojati Tourism is presently the coolest thing in the competitive world’s tourism arena. Australia’s Aboriginal Tourism, New Zealand’s Māori Tourism and Canada’s Inuit Tourism are receiving a lot of attention. Native Americans in the US have generated a momentum which has compelled the global tourism industry to innovate and evolve to a degree previously unthinkable.
Today’s jaded travellers are on the lookout for tourism experiences that are immersive, healing and slow. Yes SLOW!
From the comfort of a regally appointed Victorian era tea bungalow or the Royal Suite restored to perfection somewhere in Bharat’s remote North Eastern state of Assam, you as a visitor will be taken into to the bewildering wildlife drama of the world famous Kaziranga National Park. Or you could choose to experience the wilderness from the cosy uber-luxury of the tented accommodations at Abor Country. With Nature Beckoning at Your Doorstep, any of the settings make for an invitation that is hard to resist!
And yes, these incredible experiential moments are every bit original, every bit Bharatiya or Bharat as they come! And I, as a Travel Writer based out of the metropolitan city of Kolkata, have no hesitation in declaring that Bharat’s Marlboro Land, The North East which for centuries was neglected and given a step-motherly treatment, is beginning to make an indelible mark on the exploding global tourism arena.
The North Eastern Tribal / Upojati Apatani Odyssey is a story with a purpose, a commitment as well as an ode to humanity to become more aware, to see more, to seek more and ultimately to transform from within the never-ending rat race of contemporary civilization.
Bharat’s North East has remained in splendid isolation for centuries and the tourism path still remains largely untrodden. But then, this region is also the most sustainable organic and carbon neutral in the whole of the great Bharatiya subcontinent. Attuned to the global tourism pulse, I can safely say that holidaying in Bharat’s North East provides an opportunity to learn what sustainability is all about directly from the indigenous and original settlers of the land. You just might come away with some incredibly Raw & Awesome moments to add to your personal travel journey on our Planet Earth!
One such fascinating indigenous tribe in Bharat’s North Eastern state of Arunachal Pradesh is the Apatanis of Ziro Valley. Cut off from civilization, the picturesque Ziro Valley is where most Apatanis dwell. The valley itself is around 32 square kilometres with a panorama of undulating mountains of the Eastern Himalayas offering a magnificent kaleidoscopic vignette.
Anthropologists worldwide are guided by the vision of Augustine – “Man wonders over the restless sea, the flowing waters, the sight of the sky and forgets that of all wonders, man himself is the most wonderful”. This is the overwhelming feeling that strikes you as you enter the world of the mysterious Apatanis of Ziro Valley. Anthropology being a study of human societies and cultures and their development, it isn’t surprising that Bharat’s remote North East has emerged as the world’s Anthropological hotspot. It is blessed with close to 250 tribes, each one with its own distinct culture, traditions, rituals, and ancestry.
The outside world is largely unaware that Anthropologists are gradually unravelling the tribal diversity of Bharat’s North East and learning how tribal societies have evolved within their own indigenous web of social relationships from the earliest prehistoric times, by way of kinship groups such as the family, the lineage, the clan, the moiety and the Village Council.
The Apatanis maintain their lives in an ecological balance with the environment and have developed their own indigenous method of sustainable cultivation, particularly wet-rice harvesting. An informal exchange with wizened Apatani folk reveals an intrinsic knowledge of Botany that will leave even the best of agriculture scientists speechless.
The trademark of the Apatani model of agro ecosystem is in the harmony between nature and land utilization. As a result, the region (Ziro Valley) is extremely rich in biodiversity, inclusive of best practices in terms of watershed. The greatest gift of the Apatanis to the scientific agriculture/ horticulture world is their indigenous method of preserving soil fertility year after year through their unique crop recycling phenomenon.
The landscape of Ziro Valley is dramatic, and oral history points to the existence of Apatanis in Ziro Valley as far back as the 8th century. Having been a student of anthropology, it amazes me no end, the manner in which these innocent tribals have developed the Valley into one of the world’s most harmonious indigenous hubs where humanity and nature can coexist.
The Apatanis numbering around 60,000 are blessed with a mystical civilization of their own, and their culture is invigorating – festivals of great pomp and grandeur, elaborate handloom heritage, intricate cane and bamboo works – all these and much more under their own supervisory setup of Bulyan or the Village Council.
The manner in which Apatanis run their administrative matters through the Village Council or Bulyan is truly outstanding. The stress is on ethics and not the fear of law or policing; the end result of which is a society that is the epitome of peace, harmony and togetherness. Perhaps a lesson for contemporary lawyers on how a legal system should operate.
In addition to being recognized for their sustainable agro forestry heritage, the Apatani cultural traditions have also been acclaimed on a global level, with Ziro Valley’s inclusion in the hallowed UNESCO’s World Heritage List.
Under the heading of Justification of Outstanding Universal Value, the report submitted by The Permanent Delegation of India to UNESCO declares that ‘The Apatanis are among the few tribes in the world who continue to worship nature. It is their relation with nature that regulates their cultural practices. All the traditional festivals are, in a way, celebration of nature. Such a system designed for nature, culture and man to mutually support each other has timeless universal value.’.
The focal point of attraction in Ziro Valley is the cluster of 7 villages located at an elevation of 2200 m. And what characterizes these villages are the tribal hutments that are built in a straight row; a combination of bamboo & timber that provides a rugged ambience.
Belonging to the Tibeto-Mongoloid racial stock, these mythical people trace their ancestry to “Abotani” and their abiding faith in this supreme spiritual being. Apatanis are known to lead a patriarchal social system and their religion, Donyi Polo is every bit inspiring. A major distinguishing mark of an Apatani, the out-of-the-world tattooed on their face, is a practice that is slowly disappearing.
Time permitting, a week’s stay at Ziro Valley will unravel how the Apatanis have achieved a balance of their natural, social and supernatural world, while meeting their biological and spiritual needs. First time visitors find the archaic belief system, their ancient observances, folk tales, legends and riddles to be awe-inspiring.
For those visitors desiring a dose of Bharat’s own indigenous Cowboy Culture, Ziro Valley is the perfect place to descend upon. The ancient practice of domesticating and rearing animals is still prevalent in Apatani society. In fact, prosperity and the social status of a person is still measured in terms of the number of animals he or she possesses. The prized Mithun (Bos frontalis) is the most sought after, as the tribals just love the meat!
A particularly good time to visit Ziro Valley is in late September when the entire valley resounds with music. The Ziro Valley provides a breath-taking backdrop for The Music Festival that attracts some of the best bands to entertain the thronging crowds. Outdoor music festivals are by far the best way to become immersed in cultural experiences, and many visitors use the Ziro Valley Music Festival as a launch for exploring the fascinating Apatani villages.
Festivals in previous years saw the introduction of artistic workshops, design induction, and comedy as well as storytelling sessions. And, when you inject creativity with some adrenalin pumping adventure sports, it makes for a truly compelling experience.
Ziro Valley is Bharat’s Anthropological treasure, and it is hoped that this outstanding place of universal significance will offer us not just ancient wisdom, but also an understanding of the totality of human existence through the prism of conscience.
Bronislaw Malinowski, the renowned Anthropologist made an observation long ago which I believe holds true today, particularly in the context of Indigenous Tourism: “The Anthropologist must relinquish his comfortable position in the long chair on the veranda of the missionary compound, Government station, or planter’s bungalow, where, armed with pencil and notebook and at times with a Whiskey and Soda, he has been accustomed to collect statements from informants …He must go out into the villages, and see the natives at work in gardens, on the beach, in the jungles, he must sail with them to distant sandbanks and to foreign tribes”.
For further information and reservations, please feel free to get in touch with –
Abor Country Travels & Expeditions (ACTE)
B sector, Itanagar,
Arunachal Pradesh – 791 111
Phone: +91 9863553243
+91 9436053870
+91-360-2292969
Email: [email protected], [email protected]
